Get Your Rookie Ass on the North Side of the Pier Before You Drown Old Man!

The day started very early in the Corolla. I was not very comfy last night, but I had a better sleep than many nights on an airplane. I found a McD's with a usable wireless signal (not theirs) and between the coffee and the Ibuprofen I came to life. I did find a plug-in at McD's so I charged things as I drank my coffee. I googled addresses and programmed the GPS, again, bad battery, then off for the day. I questioned if I was completely mad when I got to the beach and looked at the waves. I considered laying out my towel and sleeping for the day but I went into the surf shop, just to check it out. The lady talked me into trying in 20 minutes. I will get even with her later.

I would like to thank all the mothers on the beach that took my picture, and looked after my stuff while I tried not to drown! They reminded me of the mothers in the New zealand camp grounds (motor parks) that would watch me make my rice and OXO cubes for supper and take pitty on me inviting me to join their family to eat with them. I was 18 then and in a strange country but I guess mothers do not age discriminate, they just fill a need. So here is the before shot, fully geared up, but still dry.

The surf shop said that the waves by the shop weren't great and that I would have more luck further up the beach. When I left the store and went to the waters edge there were people sufing on the waves so I thought, in the interest of saving energy, I would surf there instead of walking all the way up the beach. The waves were making the tube you see on TV, but I thought I would stay to the edge of the break and see what would happen. The water wasn't that cold and besides, I didn't have much time to think about it. I no sooner got knee deep in the ocean when an extra large wave broke in front of me and rolled me up in a ball. So much for learning to surf without getting my head wet!

I proceeded out and was Bobing about (pun intended) but didn't have much luck being in the right place at the right time. 20 minutes in with my arms feeling like lead, a young man paddled up beside me and started a polite conversation. He made some helpful comments about my current location and alternate locations I may concider but what he was really saying was "Get your rookie ass on the north side of the pier before you drown old man!" I would like to thank that young gentleman on behalf of my family and my life insurance company! When I did catch a wave to ride in it was one hell of a trip!

I dragged my tired body out on the shore, put my towel on my board for a pillow and had a little nap. I got my wind back, picked up my stuff, thanks the kind mother for photos and gaurd duty, and headed up the beach. The waves didn't do the tube thing north of the pier, and I was much
more successful. There was a section were the wave were quite small (see above) making getting out to sea easier, then a short paddle up the beach, and you were in good waves to ride in. I can sit up on my board without falling off or turning turtle while waiting for the wave, and I can ride in on my belly. I road a few on my knees and just about got standing twice. It seems I just don't have the strength to jump up on my board once I catch a wave. There must be some techique I don't know yet. I surfed for about 4 hours and rested my eyes for a few more and tonight I am getting a room because I know I will be very stiff in the morning. I may have to take a day off tomorrow to reflect. I think this last picture says it all, tired, but content.
P.S. I didn't see any lessons offered. I think Californians are to cool to get lessons, that is more a Hawwii thing I think.