And He's Up!

I got a better sleep last night--no Walmart parking lot! I was reading a blog on how to travel cheap. It turns out that if you show up at some motels after the day shift has gone home, you may be able to get a substantial discount if you promise to be gone before the day shift comes back and pay in cash.


A new beach today and a new board. The waves were huge this morning, so I opted to wait until after lunch. It seems there is always a family to set up next to. I got some great shots today! I am glad I have a waterproof camera, though!
Even if there are no waves, floating in the ocean is a great workout, and there is always a great view (lost on me, though, because I have to surf with no glasses). The waves were breaking very close to shore when I ventured in so they were easier to catch, and I had a great first run going right to my knees. I am getting better at picking where to be in the break.

Here is the start of a good ride! The water is warm, but the wetsuit is still nice to have. I managed to get up on my feet this ride and a few more times today. The rides are short, but I tire quickly so I am not complaining.

My body is not what it was when I was 20, that is for sure! Yesterday, my leg were like jello when I left the beach, and I was worried how I would feel this morning. I discovered this morning that it was not my musles that were sore, it was my joints. Ibuprofen and a large coffee, and I was ready to get on the board again by noon. I am good for about 30 minutes before my body gives out. Here is a picture of me after one wave too many. It reminded me of the ski trip I would like to forget a few years back. I think the dad took this, but at least he didn't laugh out loud when I made it back to my towel for a rest.

I decided to quit late in the afternoon before I drowned. It was a great day, and I can truly say I have surfed now. I am going to move further down the coast to a different beach tomorrow, so I will be at a different camera than I originally planned. My new surfer dude self is not concerned with the change of plans. Hell, I might change my mind again! (But I won't) I will be at the cam link below at noon California time. Just a note about the cam site: It appears that the site delays the feed by 10 minutes, so be patient. Having a great time, but I don't think I could live here. Until tomorrow, keep your board up dude!

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/newport-pier-southern-california_4227/