Random Thoughts from India

This part of the country is flat F-L-A-T--flat! And I am from Saskatchewan, so I know flat. I mean this is watch-your-goat-run-away-for-6-days-standing-on-a-chapati flat! I can't imagine where the water goes when it rains. It must go into the soil. If you were to put the proper slope on an average sized parking lot here, the center would be the tallest hill for miles. I guess it makes it easy to make rice patties and there is no shortage of those.

Hair. These people know how to grow hair: long, thick, shiny, black hair--and not just the women! The men all have perfectly quaffed, Elvis-sized, thick, black hair. It is like there is some naturally occurring Minoxidil in the water. And it is not just that they all have a lot of it. Their hair is always clean and shiny and never seems to move in the wind. Maybe it is so thick that there is nowhere for it to move. I, on the other hand, had an emergency haircut 10 minutes before leaving for the airport, and it is the best thing that I could have done. (Thank you, thank you, thank you to my daughter for that!) Even with all my hair only 3/8 of an inch long, I somehow still manage to look like I have just been drug through a hedge backwards.

Sari's in the surf. It seems that bathing suits have not made it to southern India. We stopped at the beach where three seas meet. The sand part of the beach was very small and packed with people. Most were wading in the water, some swimming, but I was the only guy in a bathing suit. The women were in their saris, and the men were in pants or shorts. I am glad I didn’t bring my Speedo! The crowd seemed to part as I walked through, and there was no problem finding space to swim. They were all very polite, but you might have thought Moby Dick had just washed ashore with the stares I got. I would have been less conspicuous in a sari, I think.

Chipmunks! Yes, there are chipmunks in India! I guess there is no good reason that there shouldn’t be, but I was quite startled to see a couple of chipmunks running along the wall in front of my window this morning. I wonder what Alvin would sound like with an Indian accent?

St. Luke's

St. Luke’s is so much more than a leprosarium. They have adopted a much more holistic approach to the problem of leprosy. Curing leprosy is a simple matter of the right antibiotics; changing the root cause and the social attitudes around leprosy is a whole other issue. I am not sure how many people in North America realize that leprosy is still a problem in the world. India is by far the world hot spot for new leprosy cases, accounting for about 75% of new cases globally. Fortunately the number of new cases is dropping, but even if there were no more new cases starting today, we still have a 50 year problem.



Early detection is since the bacteria that causes leprosy can be completely wiped out with cheap antibiotics, but the problem is the social stigma. People, especially women, tend not to act quickly because lepers are still shunned from their community. Once the bacteria advances to the stage of damaging nerves, the condition can be halted, but the nerve damage cannot be reversed.


Many of the people I met at St. Luke’s have been there for many years. Damaged limbs prevent them from regular employment, and the community is not welcoming toward them should they try to return to their home village. St. Luke’s retains them and gives them meaning and purpose in their lives. Depending on the degree of damage they have some can work in the fields or do handicrafts. One man is making candles. Others help to care for their fellow patients less fortunate than themselves.




In addition to helping patients suffering from leprosy, St. Luke’s works with the children of patients providing schooling and a home to live in. There are agricultural training programs for these children that include gardening, goat farming, and pig farming. Education of the community is key to integrating people back into society, and although this is a slow process, St. Luke’s is working hard to bring this about. Although I am sure that leprosy will be eradicated from the earth at some point, I also predict it will be long after the roof we are building crumbles. My thanks to the staff of St. Luke’s for their dedication to helping our brothers and sisters in a time of need. When you do this for the least of these...

South India Spa & Weight Loss Program

If you are looking for a great way to tone up and lose a few extra pounds, try a trip to South India in April. The program starts as you leave the plane. You can feel the fat melt away in the +40 degree heat. As a matter of fact, it's not just the fat--you melt! You receive plenty of encouragement from all around as you struggle to retrieve your bags from the one small luggage belt carrying everyone's bags from both flights that have just arrived. This becomes your first cardiac workout. The drive to your final destination is a great core workout. It is far too hot to sit back in your seat, so you try to remain upright as your driver navigates the very busy, ever-changing roads. Three hours later you will be 3 pounds lighter, more fit, and have no appetite because of the heat. Only 4 more days to go! This is just what I needed to break that fitness plateau I have been on for the last 6 weeks!

In all seriousness, I was very warmly received (pun intended) by the staff at St. Luke’s Leprosy Colony! I am impressed with the level of organization, professionalism, and care the patients are receiving. There are more than 150 people under care here, and many have been here for more than 20 years. The buildings are aging; many were built in stages as funds were available. Three of the buildings have metal roofs that were supposed to be temporary many years ago! Granted, this is the hottest time of the year, but being under a tin roof at 42 degree C is unbelievable! I can feel the heat radiating down from the roof like an infrared heater. I wish I brought an IR heat tester with me. Or maybe I don’t want to know the surface temperature! We are proposing to replace one roof, and there is a German NGO that will be doing a second roof, but there is still one to go!

This group is well organized and accustomed to doing projects with NGOs and individuals, so I am confident that this project will go smoothly. Reporting is possible because they have internet on campus--not just internet, I was informed, but fast internet! Sure enough, there is one computer connected to the internet at a blistering 10Mb! It reminds me of my office in Ag Mech when I started.

I have not done much to earn my keep yet, but this morning I looked at the playground equipment outside my window to see one broken swing. I knew I brought my Leatherman for something. I found some wire in the ditch (don’t ask) and wired up the swing. I took it for a spin to test the repair. If it holds me, it will hold an entire class of these young kids. I hope that will not be the sum total of my contribution from this trip. Oh yes, I have also donated quite a bit of blood to the local night creatures.

Unplugged, But Not By Choice - April 17

I am unplugged again, but it is different this time. I didn’t plan this, for starters! I can usually count on getting internet at certain spots along my route, but this time it has not happened. The hotel was full; we did not stop at CCIT in Champai; and there is not even cell phone out here in Zohkathar! I am still writing when I have a minute (usually early in the morning when I can’t sleep), but I feel more cut off this trip than ever before. I am safe, healthy, happy, but cut off. I did a week unplugged before without trouble, so what is the difference now?

Expectation, is all. This morning I was up with the first light of dawn. I am staying in a very nice guest house overlooking the Burma boarder. Again, it was very quiet. Again, it was the voices in my head that pulled me from my sleep. But today I looked out at those on the receiving end of the racial rant. As I worried about being disconnected from my family and friends, I looked down at a Burmese family on the India side of the river--truly unplugged, disconnected. Unplugged not just from technology but from their homeland, their family, and their culture. Children who will not see their parents birthplace, children who will be judged by their name first and their actions second, children who will have to create a new culture with elements from their past and present.

I have yet to make the trip from Aizawl to Zowkathar without our driver stopping somewhere to drop off a letter or a package along the way. It just seems to be a community service the driver provides. Although I am unplugged, this blog is getting to you because of a network of friends: a driver willing to drop off a memory stick with Grace at CCIT; Grace willing to download and email this it my editor, Crystal; and Crystal willing to work her magic and mount this for the rest of my family and friends to see. As long as I have friends, I will never be completely unplugged.

No Rest for the Wicked

I can't believe I have been back from Haiti for 6 days already, and tomorrow I leave for India! Some mornings I am not sure if I can use the tap water to brush my teeth; I have to stop and think of what country I am in first. Although life is a blur for me these days, there are some recurring themes that pop up regardless of where I lay my head:

Be thankful for what you have! The people of Thor's camp reinforced for me the idea that we are better off to be thankful for what we have than to complain about the things we don't have--a lesson I need to remember, especially coming from a country with so much. Don't stop trying to improve your lot in life, but make sure that which you seek will truly bring improvement. Spend more time reflecting on what you have.

Be thankful for who you have! It is the people in your life and the community you create that will be there for you when you need help. There is a great Haitian proverb that, translated loosely, says, "cooked food has no master." The evidence of community in Haiti is overwhelming, and I am jealous of them. Not everyone in the camp are best friends, but when one family gets food, everyone eats. The knowledge that they are stronger together than they are apart is something that they live by but that we too often forget. And now I am off to India--again to a community that truly believes that together they are stronger than they are apart.

Be thankful for the time you have! Life is short; it can be very short. Working in disaster zones makes you value life and the short time we have on this earth. I have often said I would rather live 50 years like a lion than 100 years like a chicken. Live each day to the fullest; don't put off opportunity, and don't put off connections. To seriously paraphrase: do what is just, love constantly, walk humbly.

In true Scottish style, I want my tombstone to read, "he got his money's worth!" But let's not put that tombstone up any time soon. I'm not done yet!

Bolivia Photo Night

The group that traveled to Bolivia in May met on Sunday to have a photo night. Everyone was able to attend, and even some who did not go on the trip showed up. Each person was asked to show their favourite 20 pictures they took. For the most part, people used their own photos, but there was some poaching of those classic shots. Even though some of the pictures were the same, often the stories behind the pictures were different. Below are a few of the group favorites:

Wilma strategically arranged more than one photo on a power point slide calling it one picture. Sneaky, but technically correct. Lyle, on the other hand, blatantly disregarded the rules and just went quickly through his top 65. One the other side, Neil and Alicia only showed 20 pictures between them. I guess this is the true sign that they are a team. They also brought some beautiful prints for us to look at between presentations. It is obvious the difference a good camera and operator make! Many of the pictures chosen were not great quality, but it has been my experience that the picture is really a symbol or a reminder for a memory.

OK, enough of the polite stuff. The real reason for the evening was to eat and have fun. This was a big theme on the trip too--eat and have a laugh. We had a dessert potluck with the pictures. That meant that every time we had a break to load another set of pictures, we got to sample another dessert! I managed to trade my 20th picture for a pair of socks (ask Corinne to add a comment to this blog to explain), and I got to roast Lyle! Poor Lyle seemed to have a series of bad...sorry, make that 'unique'--pictures taken of him. As I was going through the combined set, I kept coming across pictures of Lyle that were dying for a witty caption. I packaged the pictures up in a little video and added captions (notice I didn’t say "witty"). Please click on this link to view. I thank Lyle for laughing almost as loudly as I was. But don’t think I don’t know that he will get even with me! Thanks for a great trip. Who is coming with me next May?

Bolivia or Bust Tour 2009!

The first student presentation for the Bolivia or Bust Tour is next Tuesday, and then I will know how much interest there really is. I have been working on a day schedule ever since I came back from my preparatory trip in August, but it is always hard to know how much to pack in. Things happen on trips, and formulating a firm schedule is a fool’s game. For instance, my first day of my August trip was 51 hours long. It was not intended to be, but things happen. When it comes to scheduling, I am not known for stopping to smell the roses, but I know I will have to do much more rose-sniffing on this trip.

Bolivia is the only country that has been able to stop me in my tracks—to make me sit and breathe and take a break. I think I respect her a little for that. In August, I was in Santa Cruz during a para (general strike). Everything just stopped. No cars on the roads. No businesses open. No one working. I think my Facebook status read something like, “Santa Cruz is eerily quiet and peaceful in a Dawn of the Living Dead kind of way.” I found it an interesting form of protest; everyone just has a nice family day. There were a few days warning, so people stocked up on food, water, picnic supplies and toilet paper.

I have a well-honed sense for identifying trouble, but as we walked the streets of Santa Cruz, we saw soccer in the streets, not cars, and we even spotted an occasional ice cream vender. It has been my experience…you know, from riots I have attended in the past!...that there is rarely ice cream served. And yes, this para was very peaceful. Some since then have been more violent, unfortunately, but still nothing on the scale of the violence that has been seen in many other countries around the world.

What is important for me to remember, and it is important for students to understand as well, is that we will be travelling in a developing nation: things are not like home. They aren’t better or worse, just different. There are certainly risks and dangers (mostly with driving) in Bolivia that we do not have to contend with at home, but there is so much to be experienced! I can’t imagine Calgary without cars for a day, and I can’t remember the last time I took a day off work and spent it with my family.
There is no question that this will be a learning experience for all involved. And, for many, it will truly be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. See you on the “B or B Tour 2009”!